Action Strings 2 Series On Native
Tic : it is Love ensnared and encaged it is a very proving to him that he was capable. But solo , strings , 2 horns. 1 ly , the action of the piece. Virtual synth expert Eli Krantzberg presents an in-depth video tutorial series on Native Instruments’ ACTION STRINGS 2 If you’re curious about how to get the most out of this incredibly expressive orchestral phrase player and lend your action scores the professional realism they’ve. Groove3 ACTION STRINGS 2 Explained 793.00 MB.
Learn to develop low and high ensembles using two separate instances of ACTION STRINGS 2 hosted within one KONTAKT instrument. So let’s get started!In these last two videos, Eli builds up a short piece from scratch utilizing a combination of the ACTION STRINGS 2 features. This is a two-part video below which details the process. I am confident this is the correct and best way to lower action whether it’s your acoustic, electric, or classical guitar.
This is one of those forgotten steps! I’m talking more about changing the type, brand or gauge of strings rather than just simply swapping out your old strings for a new set of the exact same variety. This filter allows you to specify several search strings separated by a comma, e.If you are considering changing the type of strings on your guitar, do this first before venturing into a costly setup or action adjustment. Map
Going from lighter to heavier strings will almost always affect your action and guitar neck, by raising the action. Heavier, more massive strings put more tension on the guitar neck because they require more tightness to get them up to pitch. String gauge equates to the size and more importantly the mass of each string.
Here's why: if you lower the action on your acoustic guitar permanently at the bridge, and then find out your neck still needs adjustment, you cannot go back and fix the bridge to compensate once you’ve shaved down the saddle. Some people say ‘adjust the neck after you adjust the string action’, and I totally disagree. Well it’s true here big time! Your neck needs to be aligned properly with the right truss rod adjustment before messing with the bridge or lowering string action.
Truss rods are often omitted on these guitars because nylon string guitars have thicker more sturdy necks, the lighter-weight nylon strings put much less tension on the guitar neck and are less likely to ever need a neck adjustment. In this case just skip this step. Some guitars (classical and flamenco guitars) do not always have truss rods to adjust the neck angle. This is also true on electric guitars, do the neck first.
I’ve found this step doesn’t make a huge difference but you can do it if you like. This simulates knowing the real action height while you are fretting notes. There are plenty of videos and articles online about how to adjust your guitar neck with a truss rod.When evaluating string height, some people use a capo at the first fret and then check the action higher up the guitar at the 12 fret, etc.
We don't go into detail on that here (which is a n involved process and a separate tutorial) because more than 90% of the time you don’t need to adjust the nut action, and even if you do you can still lower the action at the bridge for a much better-playing guitar as outlined here.At this point you want to move on and measure your guitar action at the 12th fret because we are getting closer to actually lowering it via the bridge. This is covered in the first video, the purpose of this is to make sure your nut action is appropriately low before moving to the bridge adjustment. There should basically be nearly no movement of the strings when you press them down. To do this, use a capo or simply fret the strings at the third fret, and examine the string height near the 1st fret. What you should do is also check the action at the nut by the headstock.
In this case follow the steps above of selecting strings and adjusting the neck FIRST. On cheaper acoustic guitars, it’s not uncommon for them to have mile-high action you could drive a car under. Usually a 1-2mm adjustment is plenty unless your guitar is way out of adjustment.
Again, typically 1-2mm is a good rule of thumb to begin with in lowering. There are also special guitar tools and spacers that will do this for you if you don’t want to use a ruler. Now you should be able to see the difference between the action on your guitar now and how you want it. Using a fine ruler or caliper, measure the space between the strings and the fret at the 12th fret. If it requires more, that’s okay as long as your saddle can accommodate it.
Some acoustic guitar saddles will lift straight out with no need to slide off to the side.With pliers cover the tips with masking tape to protect the wood near your guitar bridge. Most of the time this is easily done by hand or carefully using a pair of pliers to slide it out. Step 3: Remove the acoustic guitar saddle.With your strings loosened but not removed, it’s time to remove your saddle. If you need to lower your action 2mm in playability at the 12th fret, expect to lower your bridge saddle up to 4 mm (now you may be starting to see the importance of measuring and doing all these steps in the proper order, so that we don’t have to go back and do it again). Lowering the action at the bridge 2mm will yield a net 1 mm reduction at the 12th fret. This is just simple geometry.
Use a ruler or straight edge to mark and shade the area to remove with a pencil. You don’t want to just start removing material on your saddle without measuring and having it clearly marked. This is an extremely important step and where many people go wrong.
You can also adjust your action in steps if you aren’t sure how low to go or how low of action your guitar can handle without getting fret buzz. Just like baseball is a game of inches, your guitar lives and dies in the world of millimeters! An action reduction of 1mm is often all that is needed to make a guitar go from bad to good playability. If your action was higher on the bass strings of your guitar than the treble, you can keep with this pattern intact as you mark your saddle for reduction.Keep in mind millimeters is everything when it comes to guitar. Measure on each side of the saddle and make a small mark, then join the mark across the saddle using a ruler.
Take all precautions and safety measures including gloves and eye goggles. Step 5: Time to Grind!It’s time to shave down the guitar bridge saddle. 5 or 1 mm at first, then tune it back up and play it.
It’s important you seek qualified help, as these types of tools can cause serious injury.A safer method for the amateur is to use sandpaper, a sanding block, an electric sander, metal files, or a combination of these with the saddle safely secured in a vice. If you have spare saddles, it’s not a bad idea to practice on one first.
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